Article: TGA vs Cysteamine (Eyebrow Lamination & Lash Lift)
TGA vs Cysteamine (Eyebrow Lamination & Lash Lift)
Ammonium Thioglycolate (TGA) vs Cysteamine Hydrochloride
Step 1 is an alkaline substance and has a higher PH value than the hair's natural PH value. Increasing the PH value opens the outer layer of the hair shaft (the cuticle) and breaks the disulphide bonds within the middle layer (the cortex) in order to modify its structure. It is really important that you understand the ingredients that you are working with so that you can accurately assess what products to use on which hair type and how long to apply them for.
There are two main ingredients that you really need to focus on: Ammonium Thioglycolate vs Cysteamine Hydrochloride. The two ingredients serve the same purpose, but have completely different structures and affect the anatomy of the hair contrarily. They both increase the pH of the hair to an alkaline region, open the cuticle and break the disulphide bonds.
Ammonium Thioglycolate (TGA)
Ammonium Thioglycolate is the traditional ingredient used for the use of eyebrow lamination and lash lifting. The Ammonium opens the hair cuticle and the Thioglycolate breaks the disulphide bonds. The legal limit is 11% of this specific ingredient. It is an extremely powerful and invasive ingredient and has to be used with utmost caution as it works very quickly and allows for little control. It is good for coarse hair types and if used correctly and with profound knowledge, will not cause any malfunctions to the hair anatomy. Ammonium Thioglycolate is very dehydrating and correct aftercare is absolutely crucial.
Cysteamine Hydrochloride
Cysteamine Hydrochloride is a much less invasive ingredient. It is a decarboxylated (a chemical reaction that removes a carboxyl group and releases carbon dioxide) derivative of cysteine, which is the amino acid that makes up 18% of the keratin protein structure. Therefore, it has a strong ability to increase the strength of the hair structure whilst in use. It is generally a slower processing ingredient, however, there is no limit to how much of it can be used within the composition of the product due to its gentle characteristics; the more that is present, the quicker the processing time. Genuine Cysteamine-based solutions are often labelled as "organic" or "plant-based" systems. It should be paired with an Ethanolamine derivative as opposed to Ammonium. Ideally, a derivative is used as they are weaker and less invasive. The derivative would open the cuticle, allowing for the Cysteamine Hydrochloride to act. Cysteamine Hydrochloride is often marketed as a “damage-free” ingredient. The truth is that both TGA and Cysteamine Hydrochloride can cause damage, but the risk is much lower with Cysteamine Hydrochloride.
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